Paris Fashion Week Opens With Lace, Tinsel, and Front-Row Firepower Paris does not ease into fashion month. It arrives like a finale. After New York, London, and Milan have already had their say, the French capital opened its spring 2027 season this week with the kind of celebrity density that turns a runway calendar into appointment television. Dior, Saint Laurent, L’Oréal’s opening spectacle, and an early Matières Fécales presentation gave the first 48 hours a clear mood: lace against skin, icy pastels against black, and a few looks so extra they felt like performance art with a seating chart. The story of this opening stretch is not one single dress. It is the conversation between houses and the people sitting in their front rows — Anya Taylor-Joy treating a pencil skirt like a secret, Jennifer Lawrence melting into icy blue silk, Rihanna arriving in copper tinsel as if the city needed a spark plug, and Céline Dion stepping back onto a Paris runway as if the last few years had been only an intermission. Rihanna Kicks Off the Week in Copper Fire Before Dior even took its bow, Rihanna set the temperature. She turned up at Matières Fécales in a custom copper tinsel ensemble that read less like ready-to-wear and more like a moving light installation. The look had the waist-cinched drama of a skirt suit and the shimmer of something you would expect hanging in a window on the Rue Saint-Honoré after dark. It was loud without being costume, which is Rihanna’s particular talent: she can wear a joke and still look like the punch line belongs to her. The accessory chatter followed her just as fast. Reports of a diamond anklet that could weigh as much as 40 carats — and land near the million-dollar mark — turned a fashion-week arrival into jewelry-desk news. Whether or not every carat estimate holds, the gesture was classic Rihanna: if the clothes are already doing the talking, add a sentence at the ankle. Dior’s Front Row Speaks in Lace and Ice Dior’s spring 2027 show was the week’s first true A-list summit. Jennifer Lawrence chose an icy blue draped slip with white lace tracing the hems — a quiet, almost liquid silhouette that let the fabric do the architecture. It was a reminder that Lawrence’s best red-carpet instinct is not volume. It is temperature. Cool color, clean line, and just enough lingerie logic to keep the cameras honest. Anya Taylor-Joy played a sharper game. She arrived in a black lace Dior cape that she lifted to reveal a high-waisted pencil skirt, then locked the look with a thick black choker and pointed-toe heels. The cape was theater. The skirt was office. Together they felt like the week’s thesis: transparency as armor, structure as surprise. Taylor-Joy has spent years proving she can look both otherworldly and exacting. This was the exacting version, and it worked. Around them, the house’s ambassadors and muses filled in the palette. Greta Lee, long linked to Jonathan Anderson’s eye, wore a high-collar white blazer with light pink capris and black pointed heels — a smoking-jacket energy that asked, without shouting, whether tailored ease is about to eclipse the slip dress. Mia Goth chose a black asymmetrical dress with white lace at the hem. Jang Won-Young, Dior’s South Korean ambassador, split the difference with a sheer co-ord: white lace top, black lace skirt. Cynthia Erivo kept her clothes pared back and let an orange fringe scarf do the talking. RosalÃa brought a black floor-length dress with a maximalist white floral drape at the side. Miranda Kerr went strapless blue with a gathered bow and a thigh slit. Karlie Kloss mixed an asymmetrical baby-blue tiered skirt with a beige jacket. Taken together, Dior’s front row was not chaotic. It was curated contrast: black lace against ice blue, sheer against pencil, scarf against silence. Saint Laurent Prefers Skin and Attitude If Dior was about controlled romance, Saint Laurent was about the body as headline. Zoë Kravitz, a longtime ambassador, wore a bow-embellished cardigan and matching skirt — pretty, but with the house’s familiar bite. Zoe Saldaña arrived in a supremely sheer dress under a slouchy blazer, the kind of look that only works when the wearer treats exposure as styling rather than accident. Belmont Cameli, the internet’s current heartthrob, skipped the shirt under his suit. Rosé chose a leather blazer and high-waisted pants. Kate Moss, still the house’s living archive, appeared in an open-buttoned turquoise shirt dress with balloon sleeves. The Saint Laurent row made a different argument than Dior’s. Where Dior offered lace as craft, Saint Laurent offered sheerness as attitude. Both are valid Paris languages. One whispers couture history. The other shrugs and walks. Céline Dion and the L’Oréal Opening Number Fashion week in Paris is never only clothes. It is also spectacle, and L’Oréal’s “Express Your Worth” show supplied the week’s most unexpected emotional spike. Céline Dion, in the middle of a sold-out comeback residency, closed the presentation and reminded a fashion audience what a voice can do to a room full of cameras. Kendall Jenner wore a custom black twisted Mugler halter. Jane Fonda, Heidi Klum, Eva Longoria, Cara Delevingne, and a run of other names filled the seats and the runway edges. It was less a trend report than a reminder that Paris still knows how to cast a night. What the Opening Looks Are Actually Saying Three ideas are already circulating after 48 hours. First, lace is not nostalgic anymore. It is structural. Taylor-Joy’s cape, Lawrence’s hem embroidery, Goth’s trim, and Won-Young’s sheer co-ord all treated lace as architecture rather than decoration. Second, icy blue is the season’s quiet power color. Lawrence, Kerr, and Kloss all reached for it. In a week that also includes copper tinsel and orange fringe, pale blue reads like a palate cleanser that still photographs like a statement. Third, the front row is doing as much work as the runway. Anderson’s Dior, Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent, and L’Oréal’s casting machine are not just dressing celebrities. They are using them as living lookbooks for how spring 2027 might actually be worn: a pencil skirt under a cape, a sheer dress under a slouchy jacket, a scarf instead of a necklace, an anklet instead of a statement earring. The week is young. Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Valentino, and Hermès still have their turns. But the opening act already has a plot. Paris is not asking celebrities to play safe. It is asking them to choose a side — lace or leather, ice or tinsel, whisper or spark — and then sit down so the clothes can finish the sentence. If you are dressing from the couch this week, steal the useful parts: one sharp skirt, one unexpected texture, and one piece of jewelry that does not belong where jewelry usually lives. Paris will keep talking. You only need one good line.
Tuesday, September 29, 2026
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Paris Fashion Week Opens With Lace, Tinsel, and Front-Row Firepower
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