On the evening of November 10, 2026, Tod’s Group confirmed that creative director Matteo Tamburini is stepping down after nearly three years at the helm of the iconic Italian luxury house. VRGyani News notes that the announcement arrives amid a broader wave of creative director changes across the luxury sector, as brands recalibrate in a challenging macroeconomic environment. No successor has been named. VRGyani News has followed Tamburini’s tenure closely since his arrival from Bottega Veneta in December 2023, tracking how he refined the brand’s codes of effortless Italian elegance and artisanal leather craftsmanship.
The decision, according to the company, aligns with a strategic shift “to more decisively communicate the brand’s values, the distinctive character of its codes and the artisanal quality of its products, as well as the Italian lifestyle.” Group chairman and CEO Diego Della Valle thanked Tamburini for his contribution and wished him success in future endeavors. Tamburini himself described the role as an important chapter, expressing pride in the work achieved alongside the Della Valle family and the house’s teams.
From Bottega Veneta to Tod’s: A Three-Year Chapter
Born in Urbino in 1982, Matteo Tamburini built his career across several Italian houses before joining Tod’s. He previously worked at Rochas, Schiaparelli, Emilio Pucci, and most notably as head of ready-to-wear design at Bottega Veneta. His appointment at Tod’s in December 2023 signaled a desire to inject contemporary sensibility into a brand long associated with the classic Gommino driving shoe and understated luxury.
His first collection for Fall/Winter 2024 was widely noted for its respectful engagement with house codes rather than a radical overhaul. Over subsequent seasons he developed projects such as Pashmy, an exploration of ultra-soft leathers treated to achieve cashmere-like lightness, and he consistently elevated the signature perforation motif of the Gommino from decorative detail into a structural element of garments.
His final collection, Spring/Summer 2027, was presented in Milan in September 2026. Inspired by 1990s references including Sade, Uma Thurman, Christy Turlington, and Princess Diana, it featured refined outerwear, perforated trenches, and an emphasis on personal style formed through lived experience. Reviewers highlighted the collection’s architectural yet wearable quality and its continued dialogue with Italian craftsmanship.
Why the Exit Matters Now
Tod’s Group, which also owns Hogan and Roger Vivier, has navigated a complex period. After strong public results in 2023 (revenues up 11.9 percent to €1.13 billion, driven by China and retail), the company delisted in May 2024 through a deal with private equity firm L Catterton. Since then, softer China demand and broader luxury-market headwinds have intensified pressure on many houses to sharpen brand storytelling and product focus.
The company’s statement explicitly frames the change as part of a renewed emphasis on recognizability of codes and Italian lifestyle. In an industry that has seen rapid creative director turnover at houses including Balenciaga, Chanel, and others throughout 2025–2026, Tamburini’s departure after a relatively short tenure fits a pattern of brands seeking clearer, more heritage-aligned narratives.
For Tod’s, the brand has long positioned itself as an embodiment of Italian savoir-faire rather than high-fashion spectacle. Tamburini’s collections leaned into this identity while modernizing silhouettes and materials. His exit raises questions about whether the next chapter will double down further on classic products (the Gommino, the T Timeless bag) or pursue a different creative direction.
Looking at the Collections and Legacy
Across his time at the house, Tamburini consistently referenced the rituals of Italian daily life—soft leather jackets casually thrown over the shoulders, precise tailoring meant for movement rather than pure display, and accessories that improve with wear. The Spring/Summer 2027 show, his last, crystallized this approach with perforated leather trenches, fluid knits, and color stories grounded in sand, stone, rust, and soft blue.
Industry observers note that while the collections were commercially and critically solid, they did not generate the same level of viral cultural heat as some more disruptive creative appointments elsewhere. In the current climate, many groups appear to prioritize clarity and heritage equity over experimental reinvention.
Tamburini leaves with a portfolio that strengthened the house’s ready-to-wear proposition without abandoning its footwear and leather-goods DNA. His Pashmy initiative and the elevation of perforation as a design language stand as concrete contributions.
What Comes Next for Tod’s
With no successor announced, the immediate future of creative direction remains open. The group has indicated that the shift is intentional and tied to a clearer communication of brand values. In practice this could mean greater emphasis on core products, tighter visual identity, or a more lifestyle-oriented storytelling approach centered on Italian living.
For the wider luxury market, the move is another data point in an ongoing recalibration. After years of rapid designer musical chairs and bold creative statements, several houses are now signaling a preference for continuity, craft, and recognizable codes. Whether this approach proves more resilient in a softer demand environment will be closely watched through 2027.
VRGyani News will continue tracking both the search for Tamburini’s successor and the evolution of Tod’s product and campaign strategy in the seasons ahead. The house’s ability to balance heritage with contemporary relevance has always been central to its identity; the next creative appointment will define how that balance is struck going forward.
What do you think of Matteo Tamburini’s time at Tod’s? Share your favorite look from his collections in the comments below, and stay with VRGyani News for the latest industry developments.
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